Yom Kippur in Israel

I arrived at the Fenster's house around 9:00 pm Tuesday. The day had already been a hectic one, after a midnight slichot in Jerusalem had kept me up all of Monday night and sleeping all of Tuesday morning. Packing frantically in the early afternoon, already late for the mandatory gym time scheduled for the Athletic Track, I almost started crying. What in the world does one bring to a four-day holiday with an Orthodox Jewish family? Would they let me wear pants/shorts/tank tops? Was the rugelach I bought for them as a hostess gift kosher? Was rugelach ever not kosher?

When I got to the house, I first met the mother and the father, Miriam and Mayer, and got to observe their four youngest sleeping. Later that night, their oldest, 15-year old Tamar, returned from her Yoga class and we immediately settled into a conversation about our respective schools and educations. She attends the public Orthodox high school, and I learned about the pressure the school puts on students to enter the science track, even if they aren't interested in it, the lack of competitive and interesting physical education, the boring grammar classes, and the good and bad teachers. However, my previously mentioned, incredibly long Tuesday forced me into bed by 11:00.

I woke up early Wednesday morning to crying babies; the twins, Yosef and Merav were awake. I stumbled down stairs to meet the rest of the family: thirteen-year old Smadar, seven year-old Alon, 4 year-old Reveva, and of course the 1-year old cuties. I then had the pleasure of going on a walk with Smadar and the twins to a nearby park where we played with the kids and I continued to learn about the lives of these young, Orthodox Jews.

My afternoon was equally interesting, with a religious discussion of the Kol Nidre, a prayer I had never heard because I am a Reformed Jew. The family then prepared for the fast with a large and delicious feast at 3 pm, before setting off for schule at a quarter to 5 for evening services. Services were of course an experience as I struggled to follow the Hebrew, felt intrigued by the rocking and chest-thumping Jews around me, and generally admired the prayers, the cantor, and those who had the prayer book memorized.

Thursday was a rather uninteresting day, with me trying to expend little to no energy, feeling very hungry, attending more services, and finally breaking the fast at 6:30 that evening. I was impressed that even Smadar, at 13, had successfully fasted, seeing as I didn't have the will power to really fast until last year.

Then, Thursday night we watched Mr. Magorium's Wonder Emporium and I learned that being Israeli doesn't spare Natalie Portman from the ridicule of her compatriots.

Now the holiday's over and I am back at home reflecting on my Day of Atonement and getting ready for Sukkot. I enjoyed the time I spent with the Fensters, navigating a kosher kitchen with two sinks, and benefiting from their vast knowledge of the Tanakh. I'm glad that I had the opportunity to experiment with life in a religious household. Oh, and my rugelach was indeed kosher.